Gathering Your Basic Repair Kit

Before we get into the actual repairs, let's talk about what you need in your basic sewing kit. You don't need to spend a fortune on fancy supplies - I've seen people at fabric stores here in Canada buying expensive kits they'll never fully use. Keep it simple, especially when you're starting out.

First, you'll need needles in various sizes. I keep a pack of assorted hand-sewing needles that cost maybe five dollars at any craft store. Get ones with different sized eyes - the bigger ones are easier to thread when your eyes aren't what they used to be, believe me. You'll also want a good pair of sharp scissors. Not your kitchen scissors, mind you - get a pair specifically for fabric and thread. They stay sharper longer and make cleaner cuts.

Thread is next on your list. Start with basic colors - black, white, navy blue, and maybe brown or gray. These cover most of what you'll need for everyday repairs. I buy the medium-weight all-purpose thread, nothing fancy. Store it somewhere dry because moisture can weaken thread over time, and up here in Canada, we deal with plenty of humidity in summer and dry heat in winter.

• Assorted hand-sewing needles (pack of 10-15)
• Fabric scissors (6-8 inch blades work best)
• All-purpose thread in basic colors
• Seam ripper (very useful tool)
• Pins or safety pins
• Measuring tape
• Iron and ironing board
• Fabric marking pencil or chalk

Don't forget a seam ripper - this little tool is a lifesaver when you need to remove stitches without damaging fabric. They cost about two dollars and last for years. I also keep a pincushion handy, though honestly, a small jar works just as well for storing pins. The key is having everything in one place so you're not hunting around the house when a button pops off right before you need to leave.

Reattaching Loose or Missing Buttons

Button repairs are probably the most common clothing fix you'll ever do, and thankfully, they're one of the easiest. I must have sewn hundreds of buttons over the years - on shirts, coats, pants, you name it. The trick is doing it properly so the button stays put for the long haul.

First, if you still have the original button, great. If not, check the inside seam of the garment - many manufacturers sew an extra button there for exactly this reason. No spare button? You'll need to visit a fabric store. Bring the garment with you so you can match the button as closely as possible. The staff at places like Fabricland are usually pretty helpful with this sort of thing.

Thread your needle with about 18 inches of thread and double it over, tying the ends together in a knot. This gives you a stronger attachment. Mark where the button should go - you can see the old thread marks usually. Start from the inside of the fabric and push your needle up through one of the button holes. Pull the thread all the way through until the knot catches on the fabric.

Here's the important part that many people get wrong - you need to create a shank under the button. This gives the button room to sit properly when the garment is buttoned. Place a toothpick or matchstick on top of the button between the holes, then sew over it as you go through the holes. This creates just enough space. Go through each hole about six to eight times to make sure it's secure.

Once you've done that, remove the toothpick and pull the button away from the fabric slightly. Wrap the thread around the threads under the button several times - this creates the shank. Then push your needle to the back of the fabric and make a few small stitches in place to secure everything. Tie off your thread with a double knot and cut the excess. Your button should now be more secure than when it came from the factory.

Mending Small Tears and Rips

Small tears happen to everyone, especially in high-stress areas like pockets, underarms, and along seams. The key to fixing them properly is catching them early before they get bigger. I've saved countless shirts and pants by spending ten minutes with a needle and thread as soon as I noticed a problem.

For tears along seams, you're in luck because this is the easiest type to fix. Turn the garment inside out so you can see the seam clearly. The tear is usually just where the original stitching has come undone. Thread your needle with matching thread, tie a knot at the end, and simply restitch along the existing seam line. Use small, even stitches and backstitch at both ends to lock everything in place.

Tears in the middle of fabric are trickier but still manageable. For small holes or L-shaped tears, you'll want to use what's called a ladder stitch or invisible stitch. This technique pulls the edges of the tear together from the inside, making the repair almost invisible from the outside. It takes a bit of practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can fix tears in everything from dress shirts to curtains.

Start by pressing the torn edges together with your fingers or iron them flat if possible. Thread your needle with a single thread - doubling it makes the repair more visible. Take a tiny stitch on one side of the tear, then cross over to the other side and take another tiny stitch. Keep going back and forth, pulling the thread snug every few stitches. The edges should come together nicely without puckering.

For knit fabrics like sweaters or t-shirts, regular sewing can create stiff spots that look obvious. Instead, try to catch just the loops of the knit with your needle, working in the direction of the knit pattern. This maintains the fabric's stretch and makes the repair blend in better. Sometimes I use a piece of fusible interfacing on the inside for extra strength, especially on kids' clothes that take a beating.

Fixing Fallen or Uneven Hems

Hems coming undone is something that drives me crazy, especially on good pants or skirts. You're walking around and suddenly you feel that dragging sensation - yep, your hem's come loose. The good news is that fixing hems is straightforward, and you can often do it better than the original.

First, decide on the right length. If the hem has completely come out, you'll need to measure. Put on the garment with the shoes you'll typically wear with it. Have someone help you measure and pin the hem at the right length all the way around. If you're doing it yourself, measure from the floor up at several points and mark with pins or fabric chalk.

Once you've established the right length, take off the garment and press the hem fold with an iron. This crease line is your guide. For most hems, you'll fold the raw edge under about a quarter inch, press it, then fold it again to the hem line and press again. This double fold hides the raw edge and creates a clean finish.

Now comes the actual sewing. You can use a simple running stitch, but I prefer a blind hem stitch because it's nearly invisible from the outside. Thread your needle with thread that matches your fabric color. Working from the inside, catch just a tiny bit of the outer fabric with your needle - I'm talking about one or two threads - then run your needle through the folded hem edge for about a quarter inch. Keep going all the way around.

For jeans and heavy fabrics, you might want to use a stronger stitch or even double your thread. The hem on jeans takes a lot of stress, especially at the back where you step on them. I always backstitch at the beginning and end, and I go around twice if it's a garment that gets worn frequently. Take your time with this - a well-done hem can last for years.

Dealing with Stuck or Broken Zippers

Zippers can be frustrating when they stop working properly, and I'll admit, some zipper problems are beyond simple home repair. But many common zipper issues are actually easy to fix if you know what you're doing. Before you throw out that jacket or pair of pants, try these solutions.

For stuck zippers, the problem is usually debris caught in the teeth or lack of lubrication. First, check for threads, lint, or fabric caught in the zipper. Use tweezers to carefully remove anything you find. Then try lubricating the zipper teeth with a graphite pencil - just rub the pencil along both sides of the teeth. You can also use a bit of bar soap or even lip balm in a pinch. Work the zipper up and down a few times to distribute the lubricant.

If your zipper pull has come off the teeth completely, you might be able to reattach it. This works best if the pull came off at the bottom of the zipper. Look at how the pull is shaped - it has to slide onto both sides of the zipper tape at the same angle it came off. Use pliers to gently widen the opening of the pull slightly if needed, slide it back on, then squeeze it closed again. Be careful not to break the pull - they're often made of cheap metal or plastic.

When the zipper slider is worn out and won't stay closed, you can try tightening it with pliers. Gently squeeze the top and bottom of the slider together, being careful not to squeeze too hard or you'll break it. This often solves the problem of zippers that unzip themselves. If that doesn't work, you'll need to replace the slider, which is possible but requires more advanced skill and special tools.

For zipper teeth that are bent or missing, there's not much you can do except replace the entire zipper, which I usually leave to a professional tailor. But if just one or two teeth are problematic and they're near the bottom of the zipper, you can sometimes create a new stopping point by sewing a bar tack just above the damaged teeth. This shortens the zipper slightly but saves the garment.

Fixing Snags and Pulls in Knit Fabrics

Snags in sweaters and knit shirts are annoying, but they're actually one of the easier problems to fix. The key is dealing with them right away before they turn into holes. I've rescued many a good sweater that someone was ready to toss just because of a visible snag.

The worst thing you can do is cut the snagged thread - that'll just make a hole. Instead, you want to pull the snag through to the inside of the garment. You can buy a special tool called a snag repair needle for a few dollars, but honestly, a regular needle with a large eye or even a small crochet hook works just as well.

Turn the garment inside out and locate the snag from the inside. Carefully push your needle or hook through from the inside, catch the snagged loop, and gently pull it back through to the inside. Work slowly so you don't create new snags or stretch the fabric. Once the loop is on the inside, you can either leave it as is or secure it with a tiny bit of fabric glue if it's particularly long.

For multiple snags in the same area, fix them one at a time, working from the outside edges toward the center. Sometimes pulling one snag through will help others settle back into place naturally. After you've fixed all the snags, lay the garment flat and gently steam it with an iron held a few inches above the fabric. This helps the stitches relax back into their proper position.

Prevention is worth mentioning here too. Snags often happen from rough surfaces, jewelry, or washing machines. I always turn my knit garments inside out before washing and use a mesh laundry bag for delicate items. It's saved me countless hours of repair work. Also, be mindful of where you're sitting or what you're brushing against when wearing knits - rough brick walls, splintery wood, and even some car upholstery can cause snags.